Pyongyang

Pyongyang

Pyongyang is the capital city of North Korea or the capital of the South Korean claimed South Pyeongan Province. It is situated on the Taedong River in the southwest of the country.

Visitors to North Korea will need to be accompanied by an accredited guide or guides, who will arrange where you can visit and how you will get there. This is true of package tours (the only way tourists can get in).

However, personal visitors of foreign residents in Pyongyang are free to go around by themselves, unless explicitly told not to by Korean authorities. This can happen, but is not always the case.

Residents are usually free to wander around. However, they cannot use buses. The subway system CAN be used, despite rumours to the contrary. There are two routes, and all the stations are open to foreigners.

Despite being old, the trains run quite efficiently, and are phenomenally cheap (5 won a ride, any distance- there are roughly 5000 won to a euro on the black market). The biggest drawback to this form of transport is that the subway is only on the west side of the river, while Munsu dong, where all foreign residents live, is on the east side.

Taxis can be taken, but Koreans usually are very nervous about accepting foreigners. One exception might be the Koryo hotel, situated near the railway station. Expect the driver to check with the hotel that he is allowed to take you first. Around €5 will cover a medium distance one way ride.

Guided tours of sites in and around Pyongyang are the only way to do things. It is very rare to be allowed to wander. One caveat is regarding personal visitors to foreign residents of Pyongyang. They are usually free to wander around, although the Koreans prefer to 'help' in these situations.

Above all, be very careful about photography. Monuments and palaces are fine, but Koreans hate having their photographs taken, unless you get permission first. If you come across a street market, it is likely that everyone will run away (including the sellers), as their existence is a tacit admission of the failure of their economic system. This is not, however, always the case. The Koreans will, however, get very nervous, so a lot of smiling is a good idea. You should absolutely NOT take obvious photos in these situations.

Things to do in Pyongyang

■ Visit Mansudae Art Studio
■ Discover Pyongyang Metro
■ Visit Juche Tower
■ Visit Children's Palace
■ Arirang Mass Games
■ Arch of Triumph
■ Visit Korean War Museum

Stay in Pyongyang

■ Koryo Hotel
■ Potongang Hotel
■ Ryanggang Hotel
■ Sosan Hotel
■ Yanggakdo Hotel
■ Taedonggang Hotel
■ Heabangsan Hotel